Time To Get Your Hands Dirty

There is an amazing momentum in HRM around local food and and community gardens. Our city boasts over 30 collectively run garden spaces which include gardens at our Universities, public schools, city parks and community organizations. The people working in these spaces are some of the loveliest I’ve known and have made my job a sincere pleasure for over five years now.

If you are new to the city, or new the garden scene there are lots of ways to lend a hand, learn some skills and get a whole new perspective on this sweet little city of ours. The best way is to simply show up and introduce yourself. If you’re willing to get your hands dirty you will very soon be loved.

Before you put on your sneakers and run out into the streets, searching for gardens to love, you can check out what is going on with a few handy resources. 

For a map of all the gardens in the city plus a calender of garden workshops and celebrations, check out the Halifax Garden Network website for regular updates on what’s what. There is also a great toolbox section for those looking for some resources on all things city garden.

For those wanting to become better gardeners, there are lots of free and low-cost workshops in the city. One teaching garden is the SeeMore Green Garden on the Dalhousie Campus. They host workshops regularly during the summer months, and more spontaneously during the cooler seasons.  There are also lots of other gardens who host various workshops throughout the year and all of these workshops get posted on the HGN calender, as well as sent out over the GardenHalifax listserve which anyone is welcome to join. Some exciting events coming up soon are:

  • Compost workparty, Friday Sept. 30th at 2:30 p.m. at the Bloomfield Community Garden.
  • Tea party, Sunday Oct. 2nd at 1 p.m. at the SeeMore Green Garden.
  • Bloomfield Community Greenhouse Grand Opening, Saturday Oct. 15th 2-5 p.m. at the Bloomfield Centre

Here at the Urban Garden Project we always are looking for extra hands and volunteering is a great way to help. We need folks with all sorts of skills and various time commitments. Some things we are looking for people to help with are:

  • Tending to school gardens and bringing children out to the gardens.
  • Collecting organic materials from local cafes/restaurants for our soils.
  • Helping shovel, build, pile things in community gardens.
  • Making posters, writing blog posts, taking photos/video of our events.
  • Helping with childcare/children’s activities at workshops.
  • Facilitating a workshop on your favorite garden skill.

To lend a hand contact Garity at the Urban Garden Project, we’ll ask you what gets you excited, and get you set-up with a project.

Each garden is different and has its own gems. Hop on your bike, or on the bus and adventure to one far from your house or in a neighborhood you haven’t ventured to before. Pick a beautiful day, pack a lunch and see if the city feels different afterwards.

Written by: Garity Chapman, Urban Garden Project

Advanced Household Worm Farming

Alright, so I’m sure everyone has read the worm composting 101 post from last week and is ready to move on to some serious worm farming. Right?

Worm bins at Growing Power

If you have been composting with worms for some time now and would like to increase your production, here are some tips to get you started. If you are just getting started check out our Worm Composting 101 post for the basics.

Deciding On Scale

There are a few factors to consider when deciding on the scale of your worm farm. You will need to decide how many pounds of food you’d like to compost each day and then double that weight in worms (generally worms can eat 1/2 their weight in food every day). You can then take that estimate and decide how big you will need your bin to be, or alternatively how many bins you will require. The recommended stocking rate is 1/2 to 1 pound of worms per square foot of bin. Worms primarily live in the top 4-6” of the bin, so a deeper bed does not necessarily require more worms.

For example, say you’d like to compost 4 pounds of food everyday. This will mean you will need 8 pounds of worms. You could house these worms in 2 bins that are 2 x 2 ‘ or one longer bin that is 2 x 4 ft.

Good Bin Design

When you are investing in a larger bin or increasing production, keep harvesting method in mind when choosing a bin design. You will want a bin that makes it easy to harvest your worms and compost easily so that the larger capacity doesn’t become too tedious at harvest time. And if you decide on a stackable system remember is to keep the scale of the bin so that you can easily lift out a finished tray of compost by hand.

Large operation, regular sized bins.

The best option for easy harvesting is a continuous flow design. This is a system in which the bin or piles are set up so that the worms migrate towards the food source and leave the finished compost to be harvested without needing to separate the two. The worms can migrate horizontally or vertically and generally this is done by separating finished compost from the new food with a screen.

For most home based operations a great continuous flow design is a stackable bin that allows the worms to climb up into a new bin as they finish processing the scraps in the lower bins. These are great because you can have a productive operation without taking up a lot of space. There are a couple of popular commercial bins you can purchase such as the Worm Factory and the Can-O-Worms. If you’d rather build your own stackable system you can use these designs using wood or plastic bins.

DIY stackable system

Worm Reproduction

You can fully stock your bins right at the beginning, or if you are short on money but long on time, you can allow your worms to reproduce in the bins. Compost worm populations can be expected to double every 60 to 90 days, when the following conditions are met:

    •  Adequate and continuous food supply
    • Well aerated bedding with moisture content between 70 and 90%
    • Temperatures maintained between 15 and 30oC
    • Initial stocking of at least 1/2 lb/ft2 but not more than 1 lb/ft2

If you’d like to know more about how worms reproduce, All Things Organic has a great article outlining some of the finer details of earthworm biology and reproduction that is well worth a look.

Vermicomposting on the City or Country Farm

If you are looking to compost with worms on a larger scale, to supplement your soil on your farm, there are a lot of great examples and resources out there to help.

Will Allen of Growing Power showing his bounty.

Growing Power is an organization based in Milwaukee, where they also have an inspiring Urban Farm. A big part of their urban farm operations and soil health regime is vermicomposting. They raise worms and compost with them both in bins and in windrows. In the bins they layer worms and partially decomposed compost. Typically it takes the worms 12 weeks to process the compost into castings.

They have over 50 bins which are checked daily to ensure the worms are adequately fed and that the bins are moist. At the end of the 12-week time period, they place a screen over the top of the bin and feed the worms new compost. Using this method, they recover approximately 80 percent of the worms to use in the next worm bin.

All Things Organic also has a wonderful and serious manual to On Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture that will tell you everything you ever wanted, and maybe even some things you didn’t want to know about vermicomposting. It outlines several large-scale systems which would be great options for people with more space and wanting to compost in the winter outside.

Where to Buy Worms in HRM:

Happy Worm Farming!

Written by: Garity Chapman, Urban Garden Project Coordinator

Letting Someone Else Do All The Work

Looking for that lush soil and nutrients but don’t have space for building that big honking compost pile? Don’t fret. Use worms and let someone else do all the work for you.

Worm composting (or Vemicomposting) is just what is sounds like, composting with worms. It can be done in a single small bin or in larger or stackable bins that can be stashed in or near your kitchen. You can use them to make smaller amounts of worm compost, or you can compost all of your kitchen waste this way and make a highly productive worm compost operation.

This post will take your through the basics of worm composting step by step. Next week we will post on the finer points of worm composting, how to increase productivity and how to set up your own household worm farm. So stay tuned.

Choosing Your Bin

You need a container to house the worms. This bin can be made of plastic or wood, and can be a single container, or one that stacks. Shallower beds tend to work better (12-18 ” high) as worms are surface dwellers, shallower containers help keep good air circulation throughout the bin. The bin can be many different dimensions, and the larger you go, the more worms you can house and the more compost you can produce. But as with most things, it really is better to start small, get a feel for it, solve some problems and then go bigger if you still want to. My bin at home is a simple Rubbermaid container from the local hardware store and is approximately 6″ deep, 1′ wide and 2.5′ long and it’s done me well for many years.

Basic, Simple, Cheap. The Rubbermaid worm bin.

If you choose to build your own bin out of wood try to pick a wood that resists rotting such as cedar, or hemlock but do not use treated woods. You can build wonderful stacking bins from wood, or you can also buy stackable worm composters from gardening supply stores.

A stackable bin makes harvesting your worms and compost extra easy. Designs For Worm BinsReady made stackable bins are great for those short on time.

 

Simple Wooden Stackable Bin Part One

Simple Wooden Stackable Bin Part Two

Stackable Rubbermaid Bin

 

Setting Up Your Bin

Now you need to set up your bin to make sure your worms will be comfortable. First the bin needs to have air holes in the top of the box and drainage holes in the bottom. The air holes usually can be made by puncturing the plastic bin with a nail and hammer. For the drainage holes, it’s often helpful to use a hand drill and a larger drill bit to make larger holes for the water to come out of if it needs to.

This bin uses shredded newspaper and some potting soil for bedding.

Then you need to fill your bin with bedding, this is what the worms will live in, and eventually eat. It can be made from a variety of materials such as shredded newspaper, shredded fall leaves, or chopped up straw. You can mix in a bit of potting soil, or larger organic high carbon material to help fluff it up a bit if it’s all matted. Make sure any material you use is dried and not fresh (use brown leaves, not green etc.) Put the mixed bedding in the bin to a depth of 6-8 inches, and dampen the bedding. It should be consistently moist but not dripping.

Now The Worms

One of the best worms for your bin is the red wiggler. They reproduce happily in captivity and are great little food decomposers. The easiest way to get worms is to find a friend with a bin and get a handful of their worms to start. You will soon have a growing worm population of your own.

Place your red wigglers on top of the moistened bedding, and bury a handful of food in the bedding nearby. Keep the lid off and after a few minutes the worms should all disappear into their new home.

Red Wiggler Worm

Where to Buy Worms in HRM:

Finding a Place For Your Bin

Your worm bin can be located in a number of places: kitchen, patio, garage, basement or closet. The location should be dark and well ventilated. The temperature should not drop below 4 degrees Celsius.

If there is a spot, it’s best to keep it near you in the kitchen. If its small try putting it under the kitchen sink, if it is a stackable bin, put it beside your garbage can. This way it’s easy to put food waste in the bin regularly and to keep an eye on how the worms are doing.

Feeding Your Worms

Red wigglers will eat half their weight in food scraps every day. So for every pound of red wigglers, feed half that weight in food waste. Feeding once or twice a week is fine or every day depending on how productive you want the bin to be and how many worms you have in the bin. Until you get a feel for your worms appetite, only feed them as they finish the food you already gave them, that way you won’t encounter problems with fruit flies and mould.

A plate for you, a plate for the wormies

Bury the food waste by pulling aside some of the bedding, dumping in the food and then covering it up. Each time you feed your worms, choose a different location. You can mark the last spot you placed the food with a skewer or other marker, and once that food has been eaten, it’s time to feed them again. If your bin starts to smell, you are feeding them too much or not burying the food sufficiently, so slow down and give them more time to eat.

Foods They Like:egg shells (crushed)

coffee grounds & filter

fruit peelings (no citrus)

tea bags

vegetable peelings

houseplant clippings

grains

peanut hulls (no nuts)

Foods To Avoid:dairy products

fats

meats

oil or oily foods

peanut butter

starches

citrus fruit

highly acidic foods

Harvesting Your Compost

Harvest your bin every 2-3 months, when the original bedding has turned into dark brown worm castings. You want to separate the worm castings from the worms, then put the worms back in the bin with fresh bedding. There are two methods to separate the worms from the compost:

1. Move the contents of the bin to one side, and add new food to the new bedding on the opposite side. The worms will leave the old pile for the new one in search of food. After a few days, remove all the finished castings.

2. Dump the contents of your bin onto a tarp or garbage bag and form it into a pile in a bright sunny area. Scoop the topmost layer off the pile and give the worms a moment to burrow deeper into the pile as they escape the light. Continue to scoop off thin layers as the worms burrow deeper until you reach the bottom where most of the worms will have collected.

Garity and a wonderful EAC volunteer harvesting the office bin. It was all very sinister.

The Finished Product

Worm compost is concentrated and filled with wonderful nutrients, so a little goes a long way! There are lots of ways you can use your compost year round such as:

  • Add compost directly to your garden beds.
  • Mix one part vermicompost to two parts potting soil to pot houseplants.
  • Sprinkle some on top of the soil of houseplants as a fertilizer. (topdressing)
  • Place a handful of vermicompost in the bottom of the hole when transplanting.
  • Make compost tea with the worm castings

    Worms to share and compost to fertilize. Quite the combination.

Common Problems and Solutions

Smelly Bin

You may be feeding the worms too much or too frequently, creating extra food waste that will sit and rot. Wait for the worms to finish their food before adding more, and give the bin a stir to allow fresh oxygen in the bin. Or if your bedding is made from leaves, they may have gone anaerobic, or in other words, they will be a smelly gooey mess. In this case, add some dry newspaper, mix it in and leave the lid open for a day or two.

Worms trying to escape

The worms may try to crawl out of the bin if the conditions are not suitable. Make sure the bin is not too moist, and if that is the case add some dry newspaper or dry, brown leaves to soak up the extra water.  If the moisture levels seem okay the bedding may be too acidic, this could be due to adding to many coffee grinds, citrus fruits or other acidic foods. Add some crushed up egg shells, peat moss or fresh bedding and do not add more acidic materials.

The bin is attracting fruit flies

Discourage flies by burying the food waste and not overloading the bin. If the flies persist, you can move the bin to shaded spot outside where they will not be bothersome. Then move them back indoors as the weather cools and the fruit flies aren’t as prevalent.

Happy Worm Farming!Red Wiggler Worm

Written By: Garity Chapman, Urban Garden Project Coordinator, Ecology Action Centre