Learning about Soil Health the Hard Way

The EAC’s Food Connections summer intern, Alison Froese-Stoddard, tells her story of learning about soil while trying to grow the perfect tomato.

I’m a rather lazy gardener, always looking for short cuts and a cheaper way of doing things.  As with many things, I have to learn the hard way not to cut corners when it comes to the soil mix in my container garden.  This is my somewhat embarrassing story of learning about soil the hard way.

My poor soil actually made an appearance in this blog last summer.  It was our first growing season in Nova Scotia, and I was excited to fill up our large raised bed garden.  I did very little to the garden soil before planting, apart from mixing in a bit of commercial compost, because I figured that the earthworm rich soil should have lots of nutrients.

The tomatoes on the left grew in the EAC’s office garden from plants I had started. The tomatoes on the right are the same variety of plants in exhausted soil in my own garden.

Not nearly enough, apparently.  Combined with very poor spring weather, my tomato crop was incredibly pathetic, and apart from two plants in my front yard planted in better soil, my harvest was almost nil.  This year, I did end up purchasing a few cubic yards of compost enriched garden soil, and topped up my garden considerably, along with adding nitrogen heavy bloodmeal , extra compost (homemade this time!), kelp meal, and potassium rich greensand.   At the end of June, many of my plants are already larger than they were at the end of August last year!  Lesson learned!

However, I’m still learning about potting soil the hard way.  Last year I ended up buying a lot of commercial potting soil for my various containers of tomatoes, potatoes and other things.  At the end of the summer, I put it in a big Rubbermaid container to get it out of the way.  This spring, I pondered what should become of my old soil mix.   I checked online, and there seemed to be quite a bit of debate as to how one should proceed in this situation, with some pragmatic folks saying it’s fine to reuse as long as you add a bit of compost, and other people swore against reusing it and suggested throwing it in the compost to bulk it up.

I did end up re-using it, and figured that if I added a few handfuls of compost to each container when I was potting up my plants, it should do the trick.  After a month or so, it was obvious which containers had gotten fewer handfuls of compost – some of my plants had barely grown at all!  I decided to re-pot the most pathetic of my container plants with extra compost, bloodmeal and greensand.  This time, I mixed my old potting soil with lots of compost, and added my amendments at the suggested rate, and once it was all mixed well, I repotted the plants.

It took a few weeks for my plants to recover from the transplant shock, but in the end I’m really glad I did it.  The above picture shows two of my tomato plants – the one on the left was the plant that originally was thriving due to the extra compost in the mix.  The plant on the right was the repotted transplant with the extra compost, bloodmeal and greensand.  What a difference!   After I took this photo, I made sure I top dressed the spindly plant with more nutrients as well, and I’ll periodically add some seaweed fertilizer to my watering schedule throughout the summer.  I did realize a bit too late that I should have used a  larger pot when I moved it the second time, because the small pot will ultimately stunt its potential growth.  However with some luck, these plants  – along with the others in my garden -  will grow enough tomatoes to put away for winter!

Steps to Get Your Garden Ready

The buds are starting to pop on the trees and whether you’ve noticed or not your garden has started to wake up and is working to get ready for the season ahead. Here is a short to-do list to help it along its way and boost your soil fertility this season. Love your soil and it will love you back.

1. Nutrient Test: Know what you are starting with

Start with a simple home nutrient and pH test of your garden, as this will give you a good starting point of what your garden needs this summer to be healthy and productive. It is really best to test in the fall, especially to get an accurate reading of your soil pH levels. If you didn’t test your soil last fall, wait until the end of this season before you make any decisions to add lime to change your soil pH.

You can buy an inexpensive home soil testing kit at your local gardening store (such as Halifax Seed). This test will tell you what your soil pH is and where your levels of your 3 basic nutrients are namely: Nitrogen, Potash and Phosphorus. This isn’t essential, but if you don’t feel like you have any guideposts, or having trouble getting to know your soil, this information can be helpful.

If you just brought in nutrient rich soil the previous season your pH will likely be just right and you’ll simply need to add a bit of compost. However if you are gardening in the ground, or your soil has been in production for a couple of seasons its quite likely that your soil is a bit on the acidic side and that your nitrogen levels are running a bit low (nitrogen is water soluble and so often gets washed out with the ice thaw and spring rains).

2. Add Amendments

Your soil test will give you a great idea of what you will want to add to your soil before planting. You will want your soil pH to be around 6, having neutral soil is important to making the nutrients in your soil available to your plants. If you are adding lots of compost and organic matter to your soil, you don’t need to worry much about your soil pH and compost is a great neutralizer.  If your soil is slightly acidic you can add  large quantity of eggshells to your garden. This is a great option if you think your soil is acidic but aren’t sure or want a more gentle approach than using lime. Collect your eggshells in the freezer or get them from your local bakery for a great alternative. If you know your soil is really acidic and you want something to work a bit faster than eggshells use calacidic limestone, or even clean wood ash, put on a week or more before you plant.

When you are trying to change the pH of your soil you need to take it slow (i.e. change the pH over multiple growing seasons).  Be careful not to add lime and animal manures within a couple of weeks of one another as they don’t react well to each other.

It is also likely that your nitrogen levels are low. If this is the case there are a few options to build up nitrogen:

  • coffee grinds and/or coffee chaff
  • chicken, sheep and horse manure (do not add with your lime)
  • grass clippings
  • bloodmeal

If your potash (or postassium) levels are low you can add:

  • woodash or
  • greensand

And if your phospourus levels are low you can add:

  • rock phosphate
  • bonemeal
For a great understanding of your soil check out our blog post Soil Health.

3. Digging In

If you planted a cover crop such as fall rye or used sheet mulching last autumn, now is the time to dig it into the soil. It is good to dig in any of your organic matter (this includes cover crops, mulches, leaves, straw etc.) and then leave it for two weeks or so before planting. You don’t need to dig deep (in fact this can disturb your soil life), think of it more as a turning action, giving air to the mixture. Giving it a week or two to start breaking down will wake up the microbial life in your soil and start making nutrients available to your plants.

If you haven’t added any of these things in the fall then add in some compost to your beds, and some well rotted leaves if you have them (this is called leaf mould and is wonderful and fungi rich).

4. Wake up the Microbial Life

There is a whole world in your soil, bacteria, fungi, nematodes, worms and more. They all have their role to play in making your soil healthy and nutrient rich. When you add organic matter you are feeding this microbial community and building up the resilience of your soil.

As a final step to preparing your garden bed, consider taking it one step further this spring and adding a batch of compost tea to your garden. This will add a great boost to your mircrobial soil life and will help break down all that organic matter you just added to your soil, making it readily available to the plants you are about to add.

If you can’t get your hands on a compost tea brewer, then add a layer of worm castings to your garden instead. Fish and seaweed fertilizers are also great microbial foods, and kelp meal helps replenish lots of micronutrients, giving your soil a well rounded support system for the season ahead.

Your plants will thank you for the prep work and you’ll be happy to see your harvest’s bounty this year.

Written by: Garity Chapman

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